A beginners guide: Furniture Flipping 101
If there is one thing that going broke taught me, it’s that new isn’t always better. In fact, it often isn’t, ever. My 2017 self would be horrified by how frequently I use Facebook Marketplace. But hey - we can learn, change, and do better.
After saving, learning the darn value of a dollar, and buying our second home, I’ve drastically changed how I go about purchasing decor.
I no longer shop for seasonal decor items and have hit up more antique places than I can count. My all time favorite is a local place called “The Junk Shop”. The name says it all.
There simply isn’t a way to cozy up a home more than adding vintage. Some vintage isn’t as well taken care of as other pieces though.
Know your options —
When buying second hand, you’re most likely going to have a little something to fix up or have a little something to change to fit your style. Knowing your options is important. You can leave the piece, bring it back to its original, or paint/stain it.
Leave it.
Leave it as is. Sometimes broken, dirty, or just imperfect is the most beautiful. A good cleaning can do wonders for your piece.
Bring it back to its original.
With most pieces I’ve bought, I’ve had to bring them back to their original beauty. A lot of pieces get refurbished by someone before you. This means someone else has already come in and stained or repainted the piece. Bringing the piece back to its natural glory is quite the process but it is always worth it.
NOTE: This is only applicable for solid wood pieces.
Here’s the process —
Sand, sand, sand. I don’t do anything fancy here. I’m not one for the bar keepers friend, oven cleaner hacks or whatever people are using these days. A good sanding does wonders.
TIP: Don’t skip grits. Begin with 80 (if the piece isn’t too rough) and move up in order from there. I usually do 80, 120, and then 220 for a smooth finish.
Finish with a top coat. If you’re trying to bring the piece back to its original beauty then you’re done. Seriously. The sanding is a beast of a process but if you can get through it then once you’re done, you’re done.
Here is what I often use to seal a project.
I’ve tried other competing brands and this is my favorite. It goes on smoothest, dries the most evenly, and has the prettiest matte finish.
Paint or Stain.
Sometimes pieces are beyond repair and you just have to cover up some of the yuck. This option makes your life a bit easier while still keeping some of the original details and craftsmanship.
NOTE: Painting is best for pieces that are NOT solid wood and have a veneer on either the top, sides, or drawer fronts.
Our old dresser set is anything but solid wood so to update them, I decided to paint and spruce.
Here’s the process —
Sand, sand, sand. Rough up the veneer so your primer has something to hold onto. You may not need to go as low as 80 here. If your piece is in really good shape and doesn’t have a super thick sealer on it, start at 120 so you don’t unintentionally scratch the surface.
∫Prime. Please prime your furniture if you’re painting it. You don’t have to buy the most expensive primer but you do have to prime. Primer gives your paint something to hold onto and it will prevent it from scratching too easily.
Paint. Here’s where I recommend investing. A good cabinet and furniture paint does make a difference. Most cabinet paints are created to go on more smoothly and lay more flat. My new favorite is Benjamin Moore’s Advanced line. Regardless of the type of paint you use, be sure to use a high quality roller. You’ll want one with a tighter nap for smooth surfaces. Be sure to do at least 2 coats of paint even if the brand advertises 1-coat-coverage.
Finish with a top coat. This step is arguably just as important (if not more important!) than priming. If you don’t top coat and seal the furniture, it will be a scratched up mess in less than a month.
Here is what I often use to seal a project.
